Route Description
Runners description of Great Tibetan Marathon 2008
Section no. 1:
Hemis: From the courtyard to the parking lot
The Great Tibetan Marathon starts form the Hemis Gompa (monestary), located at approx.
3800 meters above sea level. The monestary, which is one of the largest monestaries
in the area, has a history of 350 years. The gompa has approximately 500 monks and
they will be out in force today, either as participants in the ceremonies taking
place before the race starts, or as helpers
showing the way or manning the course stations along the route.
As part of the starting ceremony the race and all it’s participants will receive
a blessing. And as we are standing on buddhist ground the race of course cannot
be started with the usual shot from a pistol. Instead the start will be signalled
by blows on the long Himalaya Horns – noone throughout the valley will be in doubt
that the Great Tibetan Marathon 2008 has started.
Before we make our way out onto the route a little practical information might be
needed.
Course stations will be placed with intervals of four kilometer. As local conditions
will determine the actual location of each course station they might be slightly
off the eaxct 4-kilometer mark. Each course station will have water, a shaded area
where it is possible to lie down should that be necessary, and toilet tents.
The distances are showed in kilometers. As the route are shared by both marathon,
half marathon 10-kilometer and 5-kilometer distances, the kilometer signs will be
counting down from 42.195 km to zero rather than the other way round in order to
avoid a confusion of signs out on the route. The distances in this route description
will also follow this principle.
But now it is time to start the race!
From the starting line, which is placed in the middle of the courtyard
right in front of the imposing main building of Hemis Gompa, the route exits the
courtyard through a narrow gate at the end of the courtyard. 12 steps leads down
to the gate witch has a very high threshold (a sign of the importance attached to
the building inside the gate). From the gate two series of first 29 and then 15
steps leads to firm ground. From here a short stretch of dirt road leads on downwards
to a small parking lot. Watch your step as you negotiate the steps, the gate and
the dirt road to the parking lot - an accident at this point in time would be a
sad end to one of the most spectacular marathons in the world.
Ahead lies 42 kilometers of surfaced and unsurfaced roads as well as narrow paths
taking you through the barren mountain wastes of the Tibetan Plateau as well as
the lush, green meadows along the Indus River.
Section no. 2:
From Hemis to Martselang
(42km - 37km)
When leaving the parkinglot you get onto sealed road, this could
be the time to find a steady pace.
Remember that running at this altitude takes it’s toll so you should aim at a pace
a bit slower than what you would normally do. And watch out. Even though the route
is sealed there is still loose sand and gravel on the road.
From the Gompa a series of twists and turns takes you down through the small village
below the monestary. Inside the village the road turns right across a small bridge,
and the road continues down through the valley on the left-hand side of the small
stream, which irrigates the lush fields of barley and rape below the village. We
are still higher than the Indus and will be descending rapidly over the next 4-5
kilometers.
In the middle of the valley a long mani-wall – a stonewall with sacred inscriptions,
said to be the longest in all of Ladakh, is leading the way down through the Hemis
valley.
As the route gradually descends the green fields slowly give way to the barren foothills
of the mountains, and the Indus Valley will gradually come into view. For now all
you need to do is follow the sealed road that is taking you down the left side of
the valley. After a while the route passes a Chorten on the right and crosses through
the Mani-wall. As you pass through the wall there are no more fields, just a barren
stone desert. In front is a clear view of KharuVillage and the Indus Valley.
A bit further down the route crosses the Mani-wall again and will be criss-crossing
the foothills of the lower part of the valley. The road is sealed and in pretty
good condition for these parts.
After approx. 4.7 km the route reaches the road that will take you through the Indus
Valleytowards Leh and Spituk Gompa where the race will end. Take a left by the sign
and the marshall - a few meters of dirt track leads on to the road running along
the valley. We will be following this road for approximately 12 km.
Section no. 3:
Martselang to Chusod Shabma
(37km – 25km)
This stretch of road normaly sees little use and is in fairly bad shape. The road
was originally sealed, but in sections the surface has been washed away by water
comming down from the mountains in summer when the snow melts.
Just before reaching the 34 km sign (just over 8 km into the race) a small bridge
leads across an irrigation ditch. At the time of writing a section of approximately
500 meters after the bridge were under construction, and the route will for this
section be following a dirt track running parallel to the actual road.
From here it is straight ahead over the next 8 km. Conditions vary with some parts
of the road sealed and some unsealed. As you run along you will be passing fenced
areas belonging to among others the Regional Agricultural Research Station Skuast
(on the right just before reaching the 30 km sign) as well as refor-restation projects.
Watch your step here! Small irrigation channels are digged randomly across the road
by local farmers. The gompa that you can see on a hilltop to your right is the Stakna
Gompa.
The road bypasses Stakna Gompa and village, which are on the right. This short section
of road is unsurfaced. On the left will be barren stone desert, and on the right
farmland and trees, mostly surrounded by low walls in adobe brick.
After passing Stakna we are back on a stretch of road that sees some more traffic,
and is in a better state of repair, and so the going gets a lot easier. Right ahead
on the other side of the river Thiksey Gompa can be seen perched on a hilltop. Enjoy
the view as you run along this section of road.
Section No. 4
Chusod Shabma to Chusod Yokma
(25km - 12km)
By the 25 km sign the route turns right and leaves the surfaced road. A dirt road
leads towards the center of the valley and into the village of Chushod Shabma. From
the barren outcrops of the montains, the stone desert and the fenced off, poorly
irrigated areas along the section of the route we have just completed, the route
now takes us into the irrigated and more densely populated grounds feeding of the
Indus River.
The start of The Great Tibetan Half
Marathon will take place on this section just after Chusod Shabma.
Starting from Chusod Shabma the route leads through a string of villages over the
next 12 kms (8 km for half marathoners), and where the first part of the route from
Hemis might have left one with a feeling of the desolation in these parts of the
world, the section that we are about to enter now gives us the opportunity for a
closer look and a more intimate feeling of the different people living in this area.
Some of the villages are Tibetan others Moslem and as you run along you will be
passing Chortens as well as small Mosques.
Between the villages are small fields surrounded by low walls made of adobe brick,
planted mainly with barley and rape. Many of which will be harvested at this time
of year – summers are short at this altitude. Trees planted along the road provides
a bit of much needed shade and the villagers will be out in numbers cheering the
partici-pants in the Great Tibetan Marathon & Half Marathon on.
After passing the 14 km sign the route will be passing a large prayer wheel on righthand
side of the road, and shortly hereafter by the 12 km sign a large mosque. The route
is now entering Chusod Yokma and the road ends in a junction and a row of small
shops. This is the main road leading form the valley up to Stok which also has a
large Gompa and where the descendants of the old royal family who used to rule Ladakh
is now in residence.
On the right a heavily trafficed bridge leading across the Indus River to the main
road through the valley and to Choklamasar Gompa. We choose to stay away from the
highway – exhaust fumes from ramshackle old trucks carrying heavy overloads are
unbearable at this altitude. Instead we turn right. For the next kilometer we still
have some surfaced road, enjoy it while you can.
Shortly after the turn by a small stream and a turn-off leading to St. Peter’s School
we will be passing the 11 km sign.
Section no. 5:
Chusod Yokma to Palam
(11 km – 8 km)
As the road leaves the village we leave the road. A sharp turn right takes us on
to an unsealed road parallel to the course of the river. The route will be following
this road for the next approx. 4 km. We will now be passing through a predominantly
Ladakhi village with large, whitewashed houses spread out on both sides of the road.
Chortens, prayerflags and small maniwalls re-minds us that we are truly on top of
the world.
As the route leaves the village the road veers on below steep cliffs on the left
and irrigated areas with trees, houses and fields on the riverside to the right.
We have now reached the starting point
of the 10-kilometer distance. As the road start climbing Spituk
Gompa, where the race will end, comes into view up ahead - we still have quite a
distance to go before that though.
Between the 9 and 8 km signs the route passes two chortens and are closing in on
the point where the route will leave the main road for smaller tracks and paths.
By the 8 km sign we reach Palam Medical Center on the left-hand side. Here the route
turns away from the road (the turning point is marked by signs and marshalls) for
small tracks and paths taking us down towards the Indus.
At the medical-center take a sharp right and follow a narrow path between walls
seperating the fields. A short descent along a narrow track takes us in between
whitewashed Tibetan houses. Follow the track to the right and then left past a small,
whitewashed Chorten. As you are running on private property please respect the surroundings,
do not litter or pee here.
Section no. 6:
Palam to Spituk Gompa
(8 km – finish)
At the medical-center the route turns right and follows a narrow path between walls
seperating the fields. A short descent along to a narrow track between high walls,
leads in between whitewashed, Tibetan houses. Follow the track to the right and
then left past a small, whitewashed Chorten. As we are now running on private property
please respect the surroundings, do not litter or pee here.
Having passed the houses the route leads through a small gate (several marshall
will be posted along this section showing the way and keeping the gates open and
the livestock in place) and continues along narrow paths between small fields. The
next 500 meters the route will follow this path winding through fields and small
farms before reaching two small wooden bridges and an open meadow. On the far side
of the meadow (approx 200 meters) is a small, white building with a prayer wheel
– aim for that!
In case you are in need of a helping hand spinning the prayer wheel a few times
might help.
Otherwise a break on the edge of the stream might give you renewed energy. Upon
passing the prayer wheel we carry on along a short section of very uneven cobbled
road – watch your step! Luckily it is only a short run before reaching a wooden
suspen-sion bridge, draped in prayer flags (protecting the bridge and those crossing
it). This crossing will be the first of three times that we will cross the Indus
River during the race. The 6 km point is on the bridge.
Cool winds blow along the river so maybe a short break to enjoy the beautiful view
from the bridge is not such a bad idea.
Coming of the bridge you get on to a section of surfaced road. Take your time to
enjoy it while you can – we will only be follow-ing it for a short distance.
The start of the 5-kilometer distance
will take places along this stretch of road.
After another few hundred meters on surfaced road, the route reaches a draining
ditch leading towards the river. Turn left by the bridge and follow the marked track
towards the river.
By the river the route follows the Indus and will now be leading through lowlying
green (and wet) areas with grazing goats, sheep and cows. As we run along, a small
building surrounded by trees will come into sight. A course station will be located
here as well as a bit of much-needed shade for a short break should that be needed.
Having crossed meadows, small streams and in some places fields the route finally
leads on to the river bank itself and for a while the running will be on the river
bank itself. Up ahead a small Hindu temple is located right on the bank of the river.
Here we cross narrow teel bridge and carry on along the riverbank. A few hundred
meters from here the path meets up with a dirt road. Up on the right is Spituk Gompa
and and the finishing line, but first we will be making a short detour.
Where the path meets the dirt road the route carries on straight ahead following
the course of the river. A few hundred meters further on the route turns right and
another hanging bridge (this one actually carries cars) takes us across the Indus
one more time.
Stay on the left side of the road and follow the directions of the signs and the
marshalls. We will be coming back the same way so you might meet runners coming
in the opposite direction on this part. Having passed the bridge the route carries
on for a short distance before making a Uturn and going back the same way, this
time staying on the dirt road leading away from the Indus towards Spituk.
From the river the route leads into the village below the Gompa. We are entering
the final leg of the race and the number of spectators will increase. The road –
still unsealed – leads into another village. Follow the directions given by the
signboards and the marshalls and turn right towards the Gompa itself. On the lefthand
side will be a small field surrounded by stone walls, on the right chortens and
mani-walls.
The route is now following a paved but rather narrow footpath skirting the edge
of the hill on which the main part of the Gompa is located. Follow the foot-path
ahead passing Chortens, prayerflags and tibetan-style houses. Look out for the large
rock on the right with colourful Buddhist inscriptions and paintings.
Having passed below the Gompa we reach the limits of the village. Up ahead are open
fields and a view back along the Indus along the route that we have been running.
Instead of leaving the village we turn left into a small passage taking us below
a small Chorten built across the assage.
The route follows the passage, which gradually widens and leads on to a proper road.
Now we should be able to hear the tones of traditional Ladakhi music. The finishing
line is only a few hundred meters away so now might be the time to lift the head
and pick up a bit of speed for the final bit. Follow the sound of the music, turn
right through the gate – and this is it!
On the middle of the courtyard right in front of the Hall is the finishing line
– cross it and you have completed The Great Tibetan Marathon, Half marathon 10 Kilometer
or 5 Kilometer run.
The medal is yours to keep!!!
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